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Bill's Blog - April 20th
NEWS OF THE WILD |
Dodging diggers and falling rocks in Zambia
I’m sorry I’m sorry. I know I haven’t blogged for several weeks, but I was in no fit state. Actually, I was in Zambia. East Africa. Oh yeah, swanning around the luxury safari camps in my lightweight linens, I dare say you assume.
Well, as a matter of fact, for the first four days I was done up in overalls, wellies and a hard hat. Not the ideal garb when the temperature is high and the humidity is higher, but obligatory if you are dodging diggers, bulldozers, and falling rocks, or seeking refuge down a mineshaft. A mineshaft where a large section of the tunnel ceiling was being contained from collapsing by what looked like a giant rope hairnet. In fact it had collapsed only a week before, but we were assured that the net meant that that bit was safe now. Of course no one could vouch for the rest of the tunnel.
There was much nervous banter about Chilean miners, being rescued by Lassie, and ‘please can we get back above ground as quickly as possible?’ This we did, only to find ourselves careering through a dust cloud, crammed into a rattling landrover, precariously descending into what looked like a massive volcanic crater, but was in fact the work of the diggers and bolldozers, who had gouged out this giant quarry to a depth where a small team of workers were scrabbling in the mud and staring intently downwards, as if all of them had co-incidentally lost their contact lenses. The truth was that keen eyesight was essential to their task. They were searching for Emeralds.
Now, I have to admit that gemstones and jewellery are not high on my list of interests, nor indeed do I consider them ‘precious stones’ because they look dazzling, but merely because they are worth a lot of money. Rather like a lot of contemporary art, the value of an emerald seems to be dictated only by what some extremely rich person is prepared to pay. Whatever the price paid, that is what the stone is worth. Until it gets sold to another rich dealer, whereupon it becomes worth even more.
Braving an African mine shaft for Elephants
During the course of our visit we were frequently enlightened by lectures, demonstrations, power point presentations, and one sided conversations about the complexities of the international gem market. Be honest, I understood barely a word. What I did grasp though was that the management of this Mining Company were doing well enough to be able to contribute a considerable sum of money to “good causes”. In fact, they already were doing, providing medical and schooling facilities for the local people, and – and here at last comes the reason for me donning a hard hat and braving an African mine shaft – they had also subsidised an Elephant conservation project in India. They were now anxious to support their own Zambian wildlife, and we were anxious to let them. ‘We’ were a small deputation representing The World Land Trust, led by their Chief Exec, John Burton.
To find out more about the excellent work they do please visit their website www.worldlandtrust.org
I have known “purist” conservationists baulk at the idea of accepting funding from big industrial companies, especially ones that have the potential to destroy or ruin habitats. I remember 50-ish years ago when large oil companies such as Shell and BP first began espousing wildlife and ecology by funding the publication of new bird books, and maintaining nature trails and reserves and so on, there was a widespread suspicion that it was “guilt money”, and the offers were not always accepted. To put it bluntly, the majority of conservationists nowadays take a more pragmatic attitude to industry, development etc etc. The policy is: make sure they do as little damage as possible, and hand over as much money as you can get! To be fair, many of these companies are genuinely anxious to appear both responsible and generous.
Of course, mining – for emeralds or anything else – is potentially a great wrecker of habitat, especially if it open cast. I well recall the state parts of Northumberland and Wales were left in after the ravages of open cast coalmining. Fortunately, nowadays there is an obligation to repair the damage. Indeed, excavation can be ultimately constructive. One generation’s quarries can become the next generation’s lakes, marshes and reed beds. Just add water! This is already happening in Zambia at the Emerald Mine we visited. Further negotiations with the World Land Trust are continuing, even as I blog.
I will keep you posted.
All that sounds pretty constructive doesn’t it? So why did I start this blog off with a whinge? Ah, well, I am afraid our Emerald Mining hosts made one mistake. On the last night they took us to a Greek restaurant. Not what you’d expect in Zambia, and indeed the food was not so much Greek as sort of Italian. Oh let’s face it, it was a pizza house. Instead of doing the prudent thing - like leaving - at least three of us chose dishes that involved fish or prawns.
Zambia, yes, yes, yes
At some point during coffee, it was pointed out that we could hardly be further away from the sea, in a country probably not renowned for its rapid refrigerated transportation. The consequences were inevitable, unpleasant, and lasted throughout the three days we spent at a delightful Lodge in Luwanga. Alas, my condition was anything but delightful. A dawn safari drive is not the best thing to calm a queezy tummy and loose bowels. Erratic movement on rutted roads has much the same effect as being tossed around in a rowing boat in a squall, whilst being caught short leaves you with some pretty insidious choices. You can ask the driver to stop so you can nip behind a bush, but you risk antagonizing a family of resting lions. One can’t imagine they would be pleased!
Or you can try and hold it in till you get back to the lodge. You can try, but you may not succeed. In case you are wondering ... you really don’t want to know. And you certainly don’t want me to describe it!
Would I recommend Zambia for an African adventure? Yes, yes and yes. Just don’t eat the Greek pizza.
Reality birding ...
In the couple of weeks since I have been back in England, spring has arrived, bringing with it a surprise call from my long time friend and TV producer Stephen Moss. His excellent series and book of the same name is available right now: Birds Britannia. Stephen and I like to think – possibly justifiably - that we founded or at least honed a distinctive style of Natural History TV programme, beginning years back with Birding With Bill Oddie. I suppose you could call it “reality birding” or wildlife watching in general, in that we kept in a certain percentage of the mistakes and frustrations. Showing it like it is I guess.
We also worked together on various incarnations of Spring and Autumnwatch. It was regarding an item for this year’s Springwatch Easter special that Stephen contacted me. Even more surprisingly it involved me explaining how the internet can enhance your wildlife watching. Yes. Me! Using a computer. I can’t wait to see how I get on. Or am I going to be in America when the show goes out? I believe I am.
Would you mind watching it for me please?
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